Casa Silva Carménère, Cuvée Colchagua

Tasting Notes: Tobacco, tar, leather, sour cherry, plum, bell pepper, coffee, chocolate

Pairings: Grilled meats (e.g., chicken, sausage, steak, lamb) with herb-based sauces, salsas and chermoula; game meat with earthy flavors, such as rabbit, venison and wild bore

Price (approximately): $16

Producer: Casa Silva

Region: Colchagua Valley,
Rapel Valley, Chile

Grape(s): Carménère

Buy: Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors

 

My Musings:

Ever heard of Carménère? It is a much lesser-known grape than its distant cousins, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but it shares a similarly delightful profile. As a bonus, Carménère boasts a fascinating journey from the Old World to the New, from extinction to rebirth, from unwanted to celebrated. Everyone loves an intriguing narrative, and Carménère has a story to tell.

I have mentioned this wine before, but in a recent tasting I was reminded of its incredible taste and value. Fruit takes a back seat in the aromatics, which are driven by tobacco, tar, leather, bell pepper, green peppercorn, coffee, and chocolate. Darker fruit joins the party on the palate, with sour cherry, blackberry and plum, balanced with rich chocolate, coffee, earthiness, vanilla, and spice.

Carménère closely resembles Merlot in body and texture, commonly containing lighter tannin and higher acidity. This combination makes it a great food-pairing companion for a variety of cuisines.  Carménère is an excellent selection for grilled meats (e.g., chicken, steak, sausage and lamb) with herb-based sauces, salsas and chermoula that can complement the herbal characteristics of the wine. Carménère also pairs well with game meats that have earthy flavors, such as rabbit, wild boar and venison. Finally, want a unique, versatile wine that will draw some attention and conversation around the Thanksgiving table? Try Carménère!

Carménère is not a grape with ageing potential, and is best consumed within a couple of years of its vintage date. Drink early, drink often.

In Honolulu, find this wine at Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors. 

Norton Malbec, Medoza Argentina

Tasting Notes: Black fruit, tobacco, chocolate, spice, and violets, plum, blueberry, vanilla, chocolate and tobacco.

Pairings: Korean barbeque (kalbi, kalbi, and more kalbi), blue and Taleggio cheeses, chocolate, teriyaki beef.

Price (approximately): $14

Producer: Bodega Norton

Region: Mendoza, Argenina

Grape(s): Malbec

Buy: Costco

 

My Musings:

A perennial value wine from a value region! Some Old World wonks may scoff at South American wines, but they have been producing wine for a LONG time, and down in this hemisphere Malbec finds its home away from home.

Bodegas Norton has developed a reputation in Argentina and beyond for consistently high-quality, value wines. The wine’s beautiful dark purple color is the first inviting characteristic, soon followed by expressive aromas of black fruit, tobacco, chocolate, spice, and violets. On the palate, a velvety body showcases a black fruit profile with accents of plum, blueberry, vanilla, chocolate and tobacco. Fruit-forward, concentrated with medium tannins and a long, smooth finish. A wonderfully-produced wine at an exceptional price. Costco annually stocks this particular wine for around $15. At this bargain price, enjoy with regularity.

Native to France, the Malbec varietal has traditionally played a supporting role in the prestigious Bordeaux blends. In the high elevation vineyards of the Andes Mountain Range, however, Malbec has found its vinous second home. Here, Malbec is king. Its success raises the question of what sets this region apart as a preeminent location for Malbec and other varietals?

Planted in some of the highest elevation vineyards in the world, one may ponder the possibility of venturing too close to the sun. Icarus would be inclined to answer in the affirmative, but grapes at these high altitudes have adapted to the unique climate and increased ultraviolet exposure by developing thicker skins and deeper pigmentation. This translates to a greater concentration of pigments, tannins and phenolic compounds. In other words, elevation helps to produce tasty grapes. Discerning viticulturists facilitate the process with canopy management practices that can provide optimal protection from ultraviolet radiation and strong winds.

Some aspects of the weather in these high altitudes can be unpredictable, but one can consistently rely upon a cool, dry wind, plenty of sunshine and minimal risk of disease. This combination contributes to a long growing season and significant crop yields.  Grapes have plenty of sunshine and time to ripen a their leisure. 

The warm, sunny days quickly give way to cool, brisk evenings. This diurnal temperature variation is a key to this region’s productivity. Temperatures drop sufficiently at night to permit grapes to ripen slowly, preserve acidity, and develop deep, rich flavors.

The high elevations of Mendoza afford unique conditions, climate and terroir. Winemakers are harnessing these attributes to create balanced, complex and delicious wines at bargain prices. Bodegas Norton is a consistent and splendid example, but there is value in every corner waiting to be uncovered... 

2016 Anniello Soil Blanco de Pinot Noir

Year: 2016

Producer: Aniello

Region: Río Negro, Patagonia, Argentina

Grape(s): Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 13%

Body: Light

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Green Apple, Peach, Minerals, Lemon Citrus

Pairings: Steamed or sauteed fish (e.g., Opakapaka, Halibut, Cod), poke, crab salad, green vegetables, fresh herbs and vinaigrette

Price (approximately): $16

 

My Musings:

Looking for something off the beaten path? This blanco de Pinot Noir is a good candidate. All the way to the south of Argentina lies Patagonia, a cool and dry climate that is heavily influenced by the Antarctic. The wines from this region are characteristically less intense than other Argentina regions, but pleasantly dry and well-structured. This wine fits the profile nicely.

This wine is crisp and almost effervescent on the palate, with strong flavors of apple and lemon citrus (maybe a touch of lime as well).  As the wine warmed, some subtle stone fruit arrived at the party, predominantly peach. Balancing the wine on the palate was structured minerality and bright acidity. Pleasant, round flavors, great acidity and a long finish. This is a good chance to get out of the box and try something a little different. It is (sadly) not easy, at least locally in Honolulu, to procure wines from Patagonia, and blanco de Pinot Noir is not a style you come across with regularity.

Sold at Fujioka's Wine Times in Honolulu.

As a fun musing to discuss over a glass, Patagonia's name, colloquially meaning "Land of the Bigfeet" (though the etymology is not entirely clear), was derived from Ferdinand Magellan, who found the natives to be giants in comparison to the small European explorers.

Cheers!