Domaine Les Pallières Rosé

What do you get when you combine one of the best wine regions in the world with one of the best winemakers in the world? You get this rosé, and it is brilliant.

Producer: Domaine Les Pallières

Region: Gigondas, Southern Rhône Valley, France

Grape(s): Clairette, Grenache, Cinsault

Tasting Notes: Lemon peel, tangerine, red berries, white peach, steely minerality

Pairings: Literally everything, but especially the beach.

Price (approximately): $18

Buy: Fujioka's Wine Times

 

My Musings:

This wine combines so many of my favorite things. It hails from one of my favorite regions in the world, Southern Rhône, and is carefully crafted by one of my favorite winemakers, Daniel Brunier! How can we go wrong with this superstar combination?!?

I first met Daniel at the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, where he showcased his flagship Châteauneuf-du-pape Domaine, Vieux Télégraphe, in a vertical tasting seminar. Daniel’s wit and wisdom displayed a passionate and long-standing family tradition of winemaking in the Rhône Valley. I also resonate with his “no pipes, no pumps, no screws” motto that concisely conveys his attempt to ensure “maximum wine in the wine.” Grapes, not gimmicks, guarantee good wine. The result is a consistently beautiful expression of this classic French winemaking philosophy.

Reaching beyond his home in the New Castle of the Pope, Daniel found an exciting, new venture in the neighboring Gigondas appellation. Domaine Les Pallières, a working farm since the Fifteenth Century, found distinction over time for producing wines of impeccable character. Unfortunately, a series of events and neglect resulted in the Domaine falling into disrepair. While the farm goats offered no complaints, wine production struggled. Here, Daniel and his business partner, Kermit Lynch, found opportunity. Brunier and Lynch purchased the Domaine in 1998, and the Pallières revival began in haste.

A mere 10 miles from the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the village of Gigondas extends from the plain east of the Ouvèze River up to the Dentelles de Montmirail, a wondrous tableau of jagged limestone hills. Gigondas enjoys a cooler climate than its more famous neighbor due to higher altitude and a steady Mistral wind that blows down the valley. Domaine du Pallières cultivates vineyards on the slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail that range between 250 and 400 meters in altitude. Sand and clay mixed amongst the limestone yields a wine of structure and excellent minerality.  

This wine is dry, elegant, and wonderfully structured, with fruit taking a back seat to citrus (lemon peel, tangerine) and steely mineral elements. As the wine warms and opens, red berry fruit and white peach provide a sweet balance to the dry and crisp body. Overall, a delightfully refreshing rosé just in time for the warming weather!

In Honolulu, pick up a bottle for only $18 at Fujioka's Wine Times.

Cheers!

Clos de Rochebonne Beaujolais Blanc

The White Whale of Beaujolais! Even in the Kingdom of Gamay, there is room for an occasional white wine. This blanc proves that Chardonnay deserves its place at the [Beaujolais] table.

Producer: Château Thivin

Region: Côte de Brouilly, Beaujolais, France

Grape(s): Chardonnay

Tasting Notes: Yellow Apple, Apricot, Lemon Zest, Toasted Hazelnut

Pairings: Fish and seafood, snow crab salad, pasta with white wine or cream sauce, poisson cru

Price (approximately): $28

Buy: Fujioka's Wine Times

 

My Musings:

Ah, Beaujolais, the forgotten brother. While it is administratively linked to Burgundy, its famous neighbor to the north, the two regions are vastly different in terms of climate, topography, terroir, and wines produced. This has produced, to the North, some of the most sought after and expensive wines in world, leaving southern Beaujolais in the shadow of its prestigious brother.

But that has not stopped Beaujolais from making incredible wine. Wine production in the appellation can be traced back to the Roman era, when the Roman Legion traversed north from the Rhône Valley into Beaujolais. Where Legions travel, wine and frivolity follows! The wines, fine tuned by the Benedictine Monks, sufficiently intoxicated the residents, but rarely ventured outside its borders. With the advent of newly-expanded train routes in the 19th Century, Beaujolais wines cultivated new admirers in the lucrative Paris metropolis and beyond.  The light, easy-sipping Beaujolais region now produces more wine annually than the rest of Burgundy combined.

The region is made famous for its fresh, vivid, easy-drinking red wines. Unequivocally, this is red wine country. However, elevation in its volcanic regions (Côte de Brouilly and Côte du Py), combined with occasional limestone patches, create opportunity for winemakers to craft compelling white wines. Enter Chardonnay, the shining white star of Burgundy. Nestled atop the ancient volcano of Mont Brouilly, the iconic Château Thivin enjoys cool nights and unique terroir (consisting of limestone and blue granite) that affords focused flavors, bright floral elements, and balancing acidity. These are ideal conditions for Chardonnay.

The nose greets you with fresh ripe fruit of apricot and yellow apple, followed by lemon zest and floral elements. On the palate, the wine has an oily and full texture (though not unpleasant), with plenty of fruit, lightly toasted hazelnut (from the oak aging) and finishing strong with refreshing citrus acidity and minerality.

On the rare occasion you can find a Beaujolais Blanc, you must take advantage! In Honolulu, pick up a bottle at Fujioka's Wine Times.

Cheers!

2015 La Monacesca Verdicchio

Year: 2015

Producer: La Monacesca

Region: Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy

Grape(s): Verdicchio

Alcohol: 13.5%

Body: Medium+

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Lemon citrus, mineral flavors, almond, stone fruit and green apple.

Pairings: Fish of all sizes, shapes and preparations, pesto shrimp, grilled lemon-pepper chicken, antipasta, lemongrass tofu.

Price (approximately): $18

 

My Musings:

The first impression of this wine comes before any sip, swirl or smell. The color is simply stunning. While I do not frequently comment on appearance (I like to get right down to drinking), this wine will get some stares, and deservingly so. It possesses an absolutely gorgeous golden yellow hue that is produced not through oak aging, as one might expect, but through extra time on the vines.

The wine’s bouquet is floral and delicately fruity, with unripe stone fruit, green apple, refreshing lemon citrus, and subtle fresh green herbs. On the palate, the wine is full bodied, wonderfully structured and elegant. The palate is driven by mouthwatering acidity, lemon citrus, flinty minerality, a touch of salinity and finishing with sweet almond.

Many Italian wines are absolutely brilliant with Pacific Rim cuisine, and this wine is no exception. An ideal companion for fish, uncork this vino for a variety of preparations, including pink snapper ceviche, Moroccan fish tagine, Hawaiian-style steamed Moi, grilled lampuka with pesto and penne pasta, pan fried lemon-glazed 'Opakapaka, and roasted whole Onaga with fresh lime and cilantro. Not in the seafood mood? No worries, the wine’s full body and acidity affords versatility in food pairing. Try with grilled lemon-pepper chicken, light pastas and pizzas, lemongrass tofu, and grilled vegetables.

Pick up this gem at Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors for under $20, or have it by the glass with some pizza at Brick Fire Tavern. 

Le Marche

This wine hails from the central Italian region of Le Marche, long reputed for its mastery of Verdicchio, arguably Italy’s greatest white varietal. Seriously, it is that good.

Although most tourists are [quite understandably] attracted to the white sandy beaches, towering picturesque cliffs and clear blue waters of the Adriatic, those with vinous ambitions become more intrigued as they journey inland. The western border of Le Marche is formed by the imposing Apennine Mountains, which offer regional diversity of elevation, climate and terroir. This diversity complements Verdicchio splendidly, as it is known to adapt readily to different conditions and soils. The region's viticultural acumen even garnered the attention of the Catholic Church, who promptly claimed the region as Papal Lands in the Sixteenth Century. One can always rely upon the monks to offer an ecclesiastical beverage to nurture the [inebriated] soul.

Verdicchio is best expressed in two Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) sub-regions of Le Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica, which have grown Verdicchio since at least the Fifteenth Century (and arguably as far back as the Eighth Century). Here, Verdicchio is at its finest.

Verdicchio di Matelica

The Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita of Verdicchio di Matelica is distinct in its geographical position and ancient geological character. An elevated, hilly region nestled near the Apennines on the border of Umbria, Verdicchio di Matelica has a continental climate and excellent diurnal temperature variation in the summer months. This combination contributes to a long growing season that is ideal for Verdicchio to remain on the vine and ripen evenly and at its leisure. This helps to preserve acidity and produce wines with complexity and great aging potential.

The remnants of Le Marche’s ancient beginnings can still be found amongst the soils. Fossilized bones and shell deposits from maritime creatures in a long-extinct salt lake bed add to well-drained soils rich in potassium, calcium and limestone. This combination has consistently translated to age-worthy wines with exceptional mineral flavors and structure.

Verdicchio is perfect for summer sipping or as a companion to Pacific Rim cuisine. It is crisp and refreshing, yet full-bodied, versatile and can age in the cellar alongside your White Burgundies and Rieslings. Verdicchio encompasses everything a wine should be.

Cheers! 

2014 E. Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc

Year: 2014

Producer: E. Guigal

Region: Côtes-du-Rhône, France

Grape(s): Viognier (65%), Roussanne (15%), Marsanne (10%), Clairette (8%), and Bourboulenc (2%)

Alcohol: 13.5%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Apricot, peach, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, orange blossom, white flowers

Pairings: Seared scallops, grilled Mauritian lobster, pan fried or grilled fish, Vietnamese spring and summer rolls, Bún thịt nướng with shrimp or grilled pork

Price (approximately): $13.99

 

My Musings:

I must admit, I adore southern Rhône white blends. Although they are difficult to locate, particularly in Hawaii, this E.Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc often finds a tropical home on the shelves of Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors.

Driven by the aromatic Viognier, this wine’s perfumed bouquet offers alluring stone fruit of peach and apricot, with honeysuckle, orange blossom, Meyer lemon and white flowers. The palate is rich, bursting with a honeyed sweetness that accentuates the ripe stone fruit. Citrus, minerality and mild acidity balance the palate in an elegant presentation. This easy-drinking wine represents incredible value in a designation (Côtes-du-Rhône) that can be hit or miss. [Below I give a few tips for reading wine labels of southern Rhône!].

Southern Rhône Valley

Winemaking practices in this region have ancient origins. At the time King Nebuchadnezzar II was building his famed Hanging Gardens of Babylon (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) in 600 B.C.E., nearby Phoenician merchants and Greek sailors with vinous ambitions set up shop and began to cultivate the vine. Greek civilization and commerce spread that early viticultural acumen. By the time the Romans occupied the region in 67 AD, winemaking was a vast industry spread across the southern region, utilizing well-established infrastructure and trade routes to expand its sphere of influence. As the Roman trail through France commenced, the Romans surmised that copious wine was an excellent excuse for a hostile takeover. I’m inclined to agree. The Roman occupation utilized the region as a respite for the Roman Legion. Even in ancient times, Southern France was the prime destination for drinking and frivolity. Party on!

At the time of the Greeks and Romans, the vinous wisdom opined that winemaking required warm climates and plenty of sunshine. Rhône Valley fit the profile, brilliantly. The region benefits from a warm Mediterranean climate that combines an abundance of sunshine, arid conditions, cooling Mistral winds, and the distant sea’s tempering maritime influence. Traversing the region, one is pleasantly greeted with the aromas of Provençal herbs that grow wild in the Valley, filling the air with olfactory delight. Be certain, however, to watch your step! Across the southern Rhône, vineyards are visibly marked with stony gravels and soils, an ancient remnant of its glacial past during the Ice Age period.

Most vinters in southern Rhône opt for blends rather than a wine produced from a single  varietal. And with 19 permitted varietals, there are plenty of options for the winemaker. For the white wines, the workhorse grape varietals include Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, followed by Picardin and Picpoul. The unexciting Marsanne, finicky Roussanne and my personal favorite, the aromatic Viognier, round out the blending options.

Know Thy Label

French wine labels can often appear intimidating. Fear not; just a few guideposts can navigate your vinous journey through the wine aisle.

Basic Level: Côtes-du-Rhône. The most basic designation for wine from the region is Côtes-du-Rhône. Côtes-du-Rhône is the largest appellation in the Rhône Valley and easily produces the most wine - roughly half of the total production in the entire Valley. Under this designation, grapes can come from anywhere in the region, and winemaking requirements are less stringent. As a result, the wines broadly range from low-quality, oxidized, alcoholic wines to (albeit few) exceptional, rich and balanced wines. Although this week’s wine is a Côtes-du-Rhône designation, quality here can be a bit sparse, so traverse carefully. As with this wine (E.Guigal), look for reputable cooperatives that are known to produce consistent, drinkable wines.

Mid Level: Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. The next quality designation is Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. These wines originate on vineyard sites located near important winemaking villages in the southern Rhône. In these specific villages, winemakers are permitted to include the “Villages” tag on their labels, as well as the name of the specific village. These wines are characteristically more structured and higher quality than Côtes-du-Rhône. This can be prime bargain wine territory.

Top Level: AOC Specific. Specific villages have developed a reputation for producing wines of such a high quality that they were elevated to their own appellation d'origine contrôlée, or "AOC" - the highest tier of French wine classification. In Southern Rhône, look for my personal favorites in this category, Vacqueyras and Gigondas, which are consistently growing in quality and prestige, producing rustic, powerful and spicy cuvées that can rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape at a fraction of the price. Read: find value here.

The Flagship: Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The flagship AOC in southern Rhône Valley is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This region famously crafts some of the best wine in France and, indeed, the world. It does, however, typically come with a price tag to match. While you will not find many bargain wines bearing the Châteauneuf crest, this is a truly magnificent region that should be explored as your budget permits.

Cheers!

 

 

 

2016 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Rosé

Year: 2016

Producer: Domaine du Salvard

Region: Cheverny, Loire Valley, France

Grape(s): Pinot Noir (65%), Gamay (35%)

Alcohol: 12.5%

Body: Light

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Strawberry, Kiwi, Floral, Pink Grapefruit, Lemon

Pairings: Steamed salmon, Burmese tea leaf salad, Vietnamese spring rolls (without peanut sauce), strawberry, spinach and goat cheese salad

Price (approximately): $16.99

 

My Musings:

Happy New Year! I was celebrating in France, metaphorically speaking, with a not-so-bargain Champagne and wonderfully-priced bargain rosé from the Loire Valley. Wait ... rosé, for New Year? You might wonder how the non-bubbly version managed to sneak onto the sparkling menu, but this rosé was definitely worth the New Year’s Eve spotlight. 

The Loire River is the longest river flowing through France. It begins in Massif Central, a south-central, mountainous region, and flows north several hundred miles into the center of France near the city of Orleans before turning west and eventually emptying into the Atlantic. The climate of the Loire Valley becomes cooler as one travels east and away from the tempering effects of the Atlantic Ocean. The banks of this river are prime real estate for vineyards, and because of its long length and different climate zones, grape varietals and styles vary significantly within the region.  Here, there is something for everyone.

Touraine is a large appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) located in the central portion of the Loire Valley. This far inland, the Atlantic’s influence is significantly diminished, and the climate is more mild and temperate. Touraine is the largest subregion of the Loire Valley, and home to more than 150 AOC subregions.

In upper Touraine, the AOC of Cheverny has a few unique aspects working in its favor. First, terroir. Erosion of the Loire River, and corresponding deposits, is higher here than most other regions. Second, blending. Much of the Loire Valley’s wine regions subscribe to a singular varietal paradigm. One grape to rule them all. In contrast, Cheverny’s wines take a more polyvarietal path, and winemakers are not afraid to experiment with different grapes and blends. For Cheverny, more is better.

This wine, consisting of 65 percent Pinot Noir and 35 percent Gamay, dazzles in the glass with a stunning light salmon color. While Pinot Noir is a common varietal utilized for rosé blends, Gamay, most associated with the Burgundian subregion of Beaujolais, is not. In fact, I don’t recall ever seeing it used for rosé. [Anyone have another example?] The grape, however, offers incredible ripe berry fruit flavors and floral characteristics packed into a lighter body.

On the nose, ripe red fruit, dominated by fresh strawberries, kiwi fruit and citrus (lemon, lime and pink grapefruit) rounded out an expressive bouquet. On the palate, the character was light and fruit-forward with plenty of ripe strawberries and citrus. Light and crisp, with pleasing mineralality and balanced acidity. The wine did drink a touch thin, perhaps due to the Gamay, and the complexity wouldn’t rival the best rosé producers. But at a $17 price point, this wine really impresses. 

Light and delicate, the wine shines on its own. Need a refreshing glass on a warm summer afternoon? This wine would satisfy brilliantly. For food, try pairing with steamed salmon, strawberry, spinach and goat cheese salad, Burmese tea leaf salad, or Vietnamese summer rolls (sans peanut sauce). 

In Honolulu, pick up a bottle at Fujioka's Wine Times.

You may notice that my Bargain Wines received a price increase for 2018. In Hawaii I have found it extraordinarily difficult to consistently find intriguing bargain wines priced under $20. My objective is to find interesting and unique wines from regions across the globe that you can enjoy at the weekday table without breaking the bank. Along the way, I hope to explore rare grape varietals, interesting blends, and regions less traveled that can broaden our knowledge of, and appreciation for, the vinous world. I have discovered that increasing my ceiling by a few dollars provides access to a host of new and exciting wines to share. I hope you enjoy them. 

Cheers!

 

 

2015 Kirkland Signature Chablis Premier Cru

Year: 2015

Producer: Kirkland Signature

Region: Chablis, France

Grape(s): Chardonnay

Alcohol: 13%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Lemon citrus, tart apple, subtle pear, minerals, honeysuckle 

Pairings: Almost any seafood! Good alternative to sake for traditional sushi, nigiri, sashimi.

Price (approximately): $15

 

My Musings:

I Am often critical of the Kirkland label, finding it most frequently to be an average wine that expresses the characteristics of a region for a cheap price. Procure with appropriate expectations. This wine, however, is absolutely delightful and a reminder that, with a little perseverance, you can happen upon an excellent quality Kirkland label at a fraction of the region’s typical price. A tip of the cap to Kirkland Signature for this effort. Well done.

The wine opens with bright fruit and citrus aromas of citrus lemon, tart apple and subtle pear. On the palate the body is medium with excellent structure driven by minerality famous to the region and balancing acidity. As the wine warms some grapefruit citrus notes join the party, along with honeysuckle on the palate. Aged in stainless steel barrels, the fruit expression is clear and brilliant. At the Kirkland bargain price of $15, this wine is definitely priced under its punching power. Often a Premier Cru such as this is retailing for over $30. Extraordinary value found here; buy in bulk.

The nornthernmost region in the famous French appellation of Burgundy, Chablis is famous for its Kimmeridgian limestone soils that produce mineral-driven, steely, structured white wines. Focused exclusively on the Chardonnay varietal, the region is home to 40 Premier Cru vineyards and one Grand Cru (divided into seven Climats), the highest distinction in the appellation. Although the Romans introduced wine to the region, it was local medieval monks and monasteries that refined rudimentary viticultural practices and established wine as an essential component to a rural economy.  Medieval Monks: winemakers and soul savers. 

The Kimmeridgian remnants of Chablis’ ancient beginnings can still be found amongst the soils. The region, now a semi-continental climate, was for a time covered by a shallow sea dotted with islands, shoals and coral reefs. Fossilized bones and shells of long-vanished oysters and other sea life from the basin along with ocean basalt and limestone produce well-drained, mineral-rich terroir that has consistently translated to exceptional mineral flavors, finesse and structure famous to Chablis.

Cheers!