Domaine Les Pallières Rosé

What do you get when you combine one of the best wine regions in the world with one of the best winemakers in the world? You get this rosé, and it is brilliant.

Producer: Domaine Les Pallières

Region: Gigondas, Southern Rhône Valley, France

Grape(s): Clairette, Grenache, Cinsault

Tasting Notes: Lemon peel, tangerine, red berries, white peach, steely minerality

Pairings: Literally everything, but especially the beach.

Price (approximately): $18

Buy: Fujioka's Wine Times

 

My Musings:

This wine combines so many of my favorite things. It hails from one of my favorite regions in the world, Southern Rhône, and is carefully crafted by one of my favorite winemakers, Daniel Brunier! How can we go wrong with this superstar combination?!?

I first met Daniel at the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, where he showcased his flagship Châteauneuf-du-pape Domaine, Vieux Télégraphe, in a vertical tasting seminar. Daniel’s wit and wisdom displayed a passionate and long-standing family tradition of winemaking in the Rhône Valley. I also resonate with his “no pipes, no pumps, no screws” motto that concisely conveys his attempt to ensure “maximum wine in the wine.” Grapes, not gimmicks, guarantee good wine. The result is a consistently beautiful expression of this classic French winemaking philosophy.

Reaching beyond his home in the New Castle of the Pope, Daniel found an exciting, new venture in the neighboring Gigondas appellation. Domaine Les Pallières, a working farm since the Fifteenth Century, found distinction over time for producing wines of impeccable character. Unfortunately, a series of events and neglect resulted in the Domaine falling into disrepair. While the farm goats offered no complaints, wine production struggled. Here, Daniel and his business partner, Kermit Lynch, found opportunity. Brunier and Lynch purchased the Domaine in 1998, and the Pallières revival began in haste.

A mere 10 miles from the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the village of Gigondas extends from the plain east of the Ouvèze River up to the Dentelles de Montmirail, a wondrous tableau of jagged limestone hills. Gigondas enjoys a cooler climate than its more famous neighbor due to higher altitude and a steady Mistral wind that blows down the valley. Domaine du Pallières cultivates vineyards on the slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail that range between 250 and 400 meters in altitude. Sand and clay mixed amongst the limestone yields a wine of structure and excellent minerality.  

This wine is dry, elegant, and wonderfully structured, with fruit taking a back seat to citrus (lemon peel, tangerine) and steely mineral elements. As the wine warms and opens, red berry fruit and white peach provide a sweet balance to the dry and crisp body. Overall, a delightfully refreshing rosé just in time for the warming weather!

In Honolulu, pick up a bottle for only $18 at Fujioka's Wine Times.

Cheers!

Clos de Rochebonne Beaujolais Blanc

The White Whale of Beaujolais! Even in the Kingdom of Gamay, there is room for an occasional white wine. This blanc proves that Chardonnay deserves its place at the [Beaujolais] table.

Producer: Château Thivin

Region: Côte de Brouilly, Beaujolais, France

Grape(s): Chardonnay

Tasting Notes: Yellow Apple, Apricot, Lemon Zest, Toasted Hazelnut

Pairings: Fish and seafood, snow crab salad, pasta with white wine or cream sauce, poisson cru

Price (approximately): $28

Buy: Fujioka's Wine Times

 

My Musings:

Ah, Beaujolais, the forgotten brother. While it is administratively linked to Burgundy, its famous neighbor to the north, the two regions are vastly different in terms of climate, topography, terroir, and wines produced. This has produced, to the North, some of the most sought after and expensive wines in world, leaving southern Beaujolais in the shadow of its prestigious brother.

But that has not stopped Beaujolais from making incredible wine. Wine production in the appellation can be traced back to the Roman era, when the Roman Legion traversed north from the Rhône Valley into Beaujolais. Where Legions travel, wine and frivolity follows! The wines, fine tuned by the Benedictine Monks, sufficiently intoxicated the residents, but rarely ventured outside its borders. With the advent of newly-expanded train routes in the 19th Century, Beaujolais wines cultivated new admirers in the lucrative Paris metropolis and beyond.  The light, easy-sipping Beaujolais region now produces more wine annually than the rest of Burgundy combined.

The region is made famous for its fresh, vivid, easy-drinking red wines. Unequivocally, this is red wine country. However, elevation in its volcanic regions (Côte de Brouilly and Côte du Py), combined with occasional limestone patches, create opportunity for winemakers to craft compelling white wines. Enter Chardonnay, the shining white star of Burgundy. Nestled atop the ancient volcano of Mont Brouilly, the iconic Château Thivin enjoys cool nights and unique terroir (consisting of limestone and blue granite) that affords focused flavors, bright floral elements, and balancing acidity. These are ideal conditions for Chardonnay.

The nose greets you with fresh ripe fruit of apricot and yellow apple, followed by lemon zest and floral elements. On the palate, the wine has an oily and full texture (though not unpleasant), with plenty of fruit, lightly toasted hazelnut (from the oak aging) and finishing strong with refreshing citrus acidity and minerality.

On the rare occasion you can find a Beaujolais Blanc, you must take advantage! In Honolulu, pick up a bottle at Fujioka's Wine Times.

Cheers!

Maison l'Envoyé Pinot Noir

A President’s Day Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Oregon, that would make our Founding Fathers proud.

Producer: Maison l'Envoyé

Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Grape(s): Pinot Noir

Tasting Notes: Cherry, fresh raspberry, pomegranate, subtle spices

Pairings: Furikake salmon, Cantonese roast duck, sautéed Japanese mushroom medley, chocolate, medium-firm cheeses

Price (approximately): $27 (stay tuned for a review of Maison l'Envoyé’s less expensive label!)

Buy: Fujioka’s Wine Times

 

My Musings:

Happy President’s Day! I had the special privilege of being invited to chat about wine this morning for National Drink Wine Day on KHON’s Living 808 with host Tannya Joaquin. What a treat! On this special occasion, I thought it fitting to pay tribute to my favorite President/Oenophile, Thomas Jefferson, by recounting a few of his nerdy, vinous tendencies and breaking out a bottle of American Pinot Noir that would truly make him proud. I couldn’t say nearly enough about Jefferson or this fabulous wine on air, so here is a special post that gets a little geeky!

“I double the doctor’s recommendation of a glass and a half of wine each day and even treble it with a friend.”
— Thomas Jefferson

Jefferson was a wine wonk through and through. During his time in Europe, he maintained a travel log that contained detailed notations on numerous aspects of viniculture and viticulture. Wherever Jefferson went, he tasted, investigated, and documented. Jefferson’s wine manifesto illustrated (sometimes literally) his scientific process related to wine. And apparently it was good. Although he spent a mere four days in Bordeaux, his evaluations of the region are still referenced as authoritative work on the Bordeaux wine trade circa 1787.

Jefferson deeply desired that the young nation be one of winemakers and wine drinkers. He firmly believed that wine had important health benefits and was a way to connect people and effectively disseminate knowledge. Of course, it was also fun, too!

“My measure is a perfectly sober 3 or 4 glasses at dinner.”
— Thomas Jefferson

Although it was not realized in his lifetime, Jefferson’s early vision for the country has finally borne much fruit. Wine is commercially grown in all 50 states, and Jefferson’s favorite wines from Rhône, Bordeaux and Burgundy have their vinous second homes in Napa Valley, Columbia Valley, Sonoma, and Willamette Valley. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all varietals Jefferson wanted to produce in Monticello, are the most popular grapes in the United States.

Most of western Oregon’s present-day wine country was once submerged in an ocean basin with active subsurface volcanoes. The remnants of Willamette Valley’s ancient beginnings can still be found amongst the soils. Ocean basalt, siliceous lava and other volcanic deposits, combined with sedimentary wash from the ice age, produce well-drained, mineral-rich terroir.  

Today, the region is a focal point for world-class Pinot Noir. Clouds and humidity from the Pacific sweep east across the Valley through breaks in the Coastal Range, resulting in cool summers and wet autumns. As a result of the climate and terroir, Pinot Noir produced here is softer, more fruit forward, and matures earlier than its European counterparts.

This wine showcases the potential of Oregon Pint Noir. The first impressions are in the expressive, alluring bouquet of ripe raspberry, cherry, and pomegranate with a touch of floral elements. On the palate, the wine is lighter in body, soft and elegant with flavors of red fruit, minerals, and spices. An eminently drinkable wine that pairs beautifully with a variety of cheeses, chocolates, duck, salmon, or a relaxing pizza-and-movie night.

Cheers!

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Riesling

There is a reason why Riesling is cultishly discussed amongst sommeliers and wine enthusiasts. Tremendous structure and complexity, wonderful expressions of fruit, and flexibility in pairing. This wine has it all.

An Art Series wine deserves an artsy background…

Producer: Leeuwin Estate

Region: Margaret River, Australia

Grape(s): Riesling

Tasting Notes: Granny Smith Apple, Kaffir Lime, Minerals, Lemon Citrus Zest, Floral

Pairings: Soft cows cheese, sushi/sashimi/nigiri, babaganoush, seared scallops, Vietnamese cuisine

Price (approximately): $16

Buy: Fujioka’s Wine Times

 

My Musings:

While most may characterize Riesling as a sweet wine, there are plenty of specimens on the dry side of the spectrum that are crisp, mineral- and citrus-driven delights. This wine is a perfect example at a bargain price. 

Margaret River, a coastal region located south of Perth in western Australia, is unequivocally one of my favorite wine regions of Australia. Comprised primarily of small botique wineries and breweries, it can be difficult to procure wines from this appellation outside of Australia, but a diligent search is well-rewarded with tremendous, intensely-flavored wines. Margaret River enjoys extraordinary growing conditions, with a maritime climate providing consistent temperatures throughout the ripening season and a dry growing season. Known for Cabernet Sauvignon, it also produces Shiraz, Merlot, Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. It is hard to find a more enjoyable region to drink and to visit than Margaret River.  A perfect place for wine and surfing — is there a better combination?! I feel a vacation coming on ...

This wine was dry with floral notes, kaffir lime, and lemon zest bursting from the glass. On the palate, the lemon-lime parade continues and is accompanied by fruit (Granny Smith apple, melon) and a heavy dose of minerality. Strikingly balanced with tremendous focus and clarity. Very expressive wine from its alluring bouquet to the bright acidity and long, dry finish. This is definitely one of my favorite Rieslings in this price range. Truly enjoyable.

As if there isn’t sufficient reason already, this wine comes ready for any environment with a screw cap that won’t have you searching for a bottle opener. As stated in my previous bottle-closure musings, screw caps can deliver the same great tasting wine in many cases while keeping a few extra bucks in your pocket. I’ll take that deal anytime.

In Honolulu, pick up a bottle at Fujioka's Wine Times. Be sure to purchase more than one bottle; you will definitely need it! 

Cheers!

La Kiuva Arnad Montjoret Superieur

Want fabulous Nebbiolo without paying Barolo or Barbaresco prices? This wine is your golden ticket.

Producer: La Kiuva

Region: Valle d’Aosta, Italy

Grape(s): Picotendro (local Nebbiolo clone), Gros Vien, Neyret, Cornalin, and Fumin

Tasting Notes: Strawberry, cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, spicy and rustic notes

Pairings: Dark chocolate, anything highlighting truffles, earthiness or funghi - such as risotto, pizza, and pasta dishes, medium intensity cheeses such as Fontina

Price (approximately): $30 (non-reserve option for $20)

Buy: Fujioka’s Wine Times

 

My Musings:

Ah, Nebbiolo, one of my all-time favorite grape varietals. Although its fame is principally derived from Barolo and Barbaresco (the King and Queen, respectively), Flavors of Italy likes to surprise me with expressions beyond these [expensive] borders. This is one such wine.

For this adventure, we have to lace up our hiking boots and traverse nearly 3,000 feet to Valle d’Aosta DOC in northeastern Italy. The high elevation, rocky soils, and cool climate allows the region’s shining star, Picotendro (the local clone of Nebbiolo) to thrive. Slightly more rustic than the Nebbiolos of the Langhe, the wine opens with earthy aromas and dark fruit. Over time, the wine opens into a beautiful and unique expression of Nebbiolo with raspberry, strawberry, cherry, spicy notes and balanced acidity. At Fujioka’s Wine Times in Honolulu, you can pick up this wine for $20 or their reserve for $30.

Fun history fact: Thomas Jefferson, America’s first Sommelier-in-Chief, was noted amongst the admirers of Nebbiolo da Barolo during his travels through the region in 1785 (although the wine at this time was much different and notably sweeter).

Cheers!




Obsidian Ridge Estate-Grown Cabernet Sauvignon

Tasting Notes: Blackberry jam, black cherry, plum, and chocolate, cedar, vanilla and cinnamon.

Pairings: Dark chocolate, The Grill

Price (approximately): $30

Producer: Obsidian Ridge

Region: Red Hill, Lake County, California

Grape(s): Cabernet Sauvignon

Buy: Fujioka’s Wine Times

 

My Musings:

As the mainland U.S. is trapped in an impenetrable cold chill, finding a strategy to stay warm is paramount. For me, that recipe often includes a bottle (or two) of Cabernet Sauvignon. When I don’t want to drain the bank account to procure it, Obsidian Ridge tops the list.

Obsidian Ridge is perennially one of my favorite full-bodied Cabernets under $40. Full-bodied and densely concentrated with plenty of youthful tannins that could benefit from decanting (or, ideally, time in the cellar). Nonetheless, any Cab fanatic would do well do pick up a bottle or two at a value price (relative to the Napa Valley prices that often start in excess of $80).

Lake County is a little-known American Viticultural Area (AVA) located amongst the dormant volcanic hills of Northern California. The region’s climate and terroir demonstrated to its early residents an efficacious agricultural haven. By the 1850s, immigrants whose hope had faded in the gold rush disavowed a laborious life in the coal mines to focus on agriculture in the fertile, volcanic soils of Mendocino and Lake County. Soon thereafter, vineyards were established. Where there is a way, there is a wine.

Traversing Mount Konocti, a dormant volcano overlooking the famous Clear Lake, one will find Red Hill Lake County, one of the newest appellations in California, recognized in 2004. Vineyards here are the highest in California, and scattered with remnants of black volcanic glass, called obsidian, and red, iron-rich volcanic soils. Elevation permits breezy air currents from the Pacific Ocean to reach the inland appellation. This moderating influence, combined with diurnal temperature variation, low humidity and the varied topography, yield small, concentrated berries with thick skins. The result is an intense wine with tremendous tannic structure and complex phenolic composition. These wines are robust, fruit-driven, and built to age.