Maison l'Envoyé Pinot Noir

A President’s Day Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Oregon, that would make our Founding Fathers proud.

Producer: Maison l'Envoyé

Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Grape(s): Pinot Noir

Tasting Notes: Cherry, fresh raspberry, pomegranate, subtle spices

Pairings: Furikake salmon, Cantonese roast duck, sautéed Japanese mushroom medley, chocolate, medium-firm cheeses

Price (approximately): $27 (stay tuned for a review of Maison l'Envoyé’s less expensive label!)

Buy: Fujioka’s Wine Times

 

My Musings:

Happy President’s Day! I had the special privilege of being invited to chat about wine this morning for National Drink Wine Day on KHON’s Living 808 with host Tannya Joaquin. What a treat! On this special occasion, I thought it fitting to pay tribute to my favorite President/Oenophile, Thomas Jefferson, by recounting a few of his nerdy, vinous tendencies and breaking out a bottle of American Pinot Noir that would truly make him proud. I couldn’t say nearly enough about Jefferson or this fabulous wine on air, so here is a special post that gets a little geeky!

“I double the doctor’s recommendation of a glass and a half of wine each day and even treble it with a friend.”
— Thomas Jefferson

Jefferson was a wine wonk through and through. During his time in Europe, he maintained a travel log that contained detailed notations on numerous aspects of viniculture and viticulture. Wherever Jefferson went, he tasted, investigated, and documented. Jefferson’s wine manifesto illustrated (sometimes literally) his scientific process related to wine. And apparently it was good. Although he spent a mere four days in Bordeaux, his evaluations of the region are still referenced as authoritative work on the Bordeaux wine trade circa 1787.

Jefferson deeply desired that the young nation be one of winemakers and wine drinkers. He firmly believed that wine had important health benefits and was a way to connect people and effectively disseminate knowledge. Of course, it was also fun, too!

“My measure is a perfectly sober 3 or 4 glasses at dinner.”
— Thomas Jefferson

Although it was not realized in his lifetime, Jefferson’s early vision for the country has finally borne much fruit. Wine is commercially grown in all 50 states, and Jefferson’s favorite wines from Rhône, Bordeaux and Burgundy have their vinous second homes in Napa Valley, Columbia Valley, Sonoma, and Willamette Valley. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all varietals Jefferson wanted to produce in Monticello, are the most popular grapes in the United States.

Most of western Oregon’s present-day wine country was once submerged in an ocean basin with active subsurface volcanoes. The remnants of Willamette Valley’s ancient beginnings can still be found amongst the soils. Ocean basalt, siliceous lava and other volcanic deposits, combined with sedimentary wash from the ice age, produce well-drained, mineral-rich terroir.  

Today, the region is a focal point for world-class Pinot Noir. Clouds and humidity from the Pacific sweep east across the Valley through breaks in the Coastal Range, resulting in cool summers and wet autumns. As a result of the climate and terroir, Pinot Noir produced here is softer, more fruit forward, and matures earlier than its European counterparts.

This wine showcases the potential of Oregon Pint Noir. The first impressions are in the expressive, alluring bouquet of ripe raspberry, cherry, and pomegranate with a touch of floral elements. On the palate, the wine is lighter in body, soft and elegant with flavors of red fruit, minerals, and spices. An eminently drinkable wine that pairs beautifully with a variety of cheeses, chocolates, duck, salmon, or a relaxing pizza-and-movie night.

Cheers!

La Kiuva Arnad Montjoret Superieur

Want fabulous Nebbiolo without paying Barolo or Barbaresco prices? This wine is your golden ticket.

Producer: La Kiuva

Region: Valle d’Aosta, Italy

Grape(s): Picotendro (local Nebbiolo clone), Gros Vien, Neyret, Cornalin, and Fumin

Tasting Notes: Strawberry, cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, spicy and rustic notes

Pairings: Dark chocolate, anything highlighting truffles, earthiness or funghi - such as risotto, pizza, and pasta dishes, medium intensity cheeses such as Fontina

Price (approximately): $30 (non-reserve option for $20)

Buy: Fujioka’s Wine Times

 

My Musings:

Ah, Nebbiolo, one of my all-time favorite grape varietals. Although its fame is principally derived from Barolo and Barbaresco (the King and Queen, respectively), Flavors of Italy likes to surprise me with expressions beyond these [expensive] borders. This is one such wine.

For this adventure, we have to lace up our hiking boots and traverse nearly 3,000 feet to Valle d’Aosta DOC in northeastern Italy. The high elevation, rocky soils, and cool climate allows the region’s shining star, Picotendro (the local clone of Nebbiolo) to thrive. Slightly more rustic than the Nebbiolos of the Langhe, the wine opens with earthy aromas and dark fruit. Over time, the wine opens into a beautiful and unique expression of Nebbiolo with raspberry, strawberry, cherry, spicy notes and balanced acidity. At Fujioka’s Wine Times in Honolulu, you can pick up this wine for $20 or their reserve for $30.

Fun history fact: Thomas Jefferson, America’s first Sommelier-in-Chief, was noted amongst the admirers of Nebbiolo da Barolo during his travels through the region in 1785 (although the wine at this time was much different and notably sweeter).

Cheers!




Obsidian Ridge Estate-Grown Cabernet Sauvignon

Tasting Notes: Blackberry jam, black cherry, plum, and chocolate, cedar, vanilla and cinnamon.

Pairings: Dark chocolate, The Grill

Price (approximately): $30

Producer: Obsidian Ridge

Region: Red Hill, Lake County, California

Grape(s): Cabernet Sauvignon

Buy: Fujioka’s Wine Times

 

My Musings:

As the mainland U.S. is trapped in an impenetrable cold chill, finding a strategy to stay warm is paramount. For me, that recipe often includes a bottle (or two) of Cabernet Sauvignon. When I don’t want to drain the bank account to procure it, Obsidian Ridge tops the list.

Obsidian Ridge is perennially one of my favorite full-bodied Cabernets under $40. Full-bodied and densely concentrated with plenty of youthful tannins that could benefit from decanting (or, ideally, time in the cellar). Nonetheless, any Cab fanatic would do well do pick up a bottle or two at a value price (relative to the Napa Valley prices that often start in excess of $80).

Lake County is a little-known American Viticultural Area (AVA) located amongst the dormant volcanic hills of Northern California. The region’s climate and terroir demonstrated to its early residents an efficacious agricultural haven. By the 1850s, immigrants whose hope had faded in the gold rush disavowed a laborious life in the coal mines to focus on agriculture in the fertile, volcanic soils of Mendocino and Lake County. Soon thereafter, vineyards were established. Where there is a way, there is a wine.

Traversing Mount Konocti, a dormant volcano overlooking the famous Clear Lake, one will find Red Hill Lake County, one of the newest appellations in California, recognized in 2004. Vineyards here are the highest in California, and scattered with remnants of black volcanic glass, called obsidian, and red, iron-rich volcanic soils. Elevation permits breezy air currents from the Pacific Ocean to reach the inland appellation. This moderating influence, combined with diurnal temperature variation, low humidity and the varied topography, yield small, concentrated berries with thick skins. The result is an intense wine with tremendous tannic structure and complex phenolic composition. These wines are robust, fruit-driven, and built to age.



Casa Silva Carménère, Cuvée Colchagua

Tasting Notes: Tobacco, tar, leather, sour cherry, plum, bell pepper, coffee, chocolate

Pairings: Grilled meats (e.g., chicken, sausage, steak, lamb) with herb-based sauces, salsas and chermoula; game meat with earthy flavors, such as rabbit, venison and wild bore

Price (approximately): $16

Producer: Casa Silva

Region: Colchagua Valley,
Rapel Valley, Chile

Grape(s): Carménère

Buy: Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors

 

My Musings:

Ever heard of Carménère? It is a much lesser-known grape than its distant cousins, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but it shares a similarly delightful profile. As a bonus, Carménère boasts a fascinating journey from the Old World to the New, from extinction to rebirth, from unwanted to celebrated. Everyone loves an intriguing narrative, and Carménère has a story to tell.

I have mentioned this wine before, but in a recent tasting I was reminded of its incredible taste and value. Fruit takes a back seat in the aromatics, which are driven by tobacco, tar, leather, bell pepper, green peppercorn, coffee, and chocolate. Darker fruit joins the party on the palate, with sour cherry, blackberry and plum, balanced with rich chocolate, coffee, earthiness, vanilla, and spice.

Carménère closely resembles Merlot in body and texture, commonly containing lighter tannin and higher acidity. This combination makes it a great food-pairing companion for a variety of cuisines.  Carménère is an excellent selection for grilled meats (e.g., chicken, steak, sausage and lamb) with herb-based sauces, salsas and chermoula that can complement the herbal characteristics of the wine. Carménère also pairs well with game meats that have earthy flavors, such as rabbit, wild boar and venison. Finally, want a unique, versatile wine that will draw some attention and conversation around the Thanksgiving table? Try Carménère!

Carménère is not a grape with ageing potential, and is best consumed within a couple of years of its vintage date. Drink early, drink often.

In Honolulu, find this wine at Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors. 

Norton Malbec, Medoza Argentina

Tasting Notes: Black fruit, tobacco, chocolate, spice, and violets, plum, blueberry, vanilla, chocolate and tobacco.

Pairings: Korean barbeque (kalbi, kalbi, and more kalbi), blue and Taleggio cheeses, chocolate, teriyaki beef.

Price (approximately): $14

Producer: Bodega Norton

Region: Mendoza, Argenina

Grape(s): Malbec

Buy: Costco

 

My Musings:

A perennial value wine from a value region! Some Old World wonks may scoff at South American wines, but they have been producing wine for a LONG time, and down in this hemisphere Malbec finds its home away from home.

Bodegas Norton has developed a reputation in Argentina and beyond for consistently high-quality, value wines. The wine’s beautiful dark purple color is the first inviting characteristic, soon followed by expressive aromas of black fruit, tobacco, chocolate, spice, and violets. On the palate, a velvety body showcases a black fruit profile with accents of plum, blueberry, vanilla, chocolate and tobacco. Fruit-forward, concentrated with medium tannins and a long, smooth finish. A wonderfully-produced wine at an exceptional price. Costco annually stocks this particular wine for around $15. At this bargain price, enjoy with regularity.

Native to France, the Malbec varietal has traditionally played a supporting role in the prestigious Bordeaux blends. In the high elevation vineyards of the Andes Mountain Range, however, Malbec has found its vinous second home. Here, Malbec is king. Its success raises the question of what sets this region apart as a preeminent location for Malbec and other varietals?

Planted in some of the highest elevation vineyards in the world, one may ponder the possibility of venturing too close to the sun. Icarus would be inclined to answer in the affirmative, but grapes at these high altitudes have adapted to the unique climate and increased ultraviolet exposure by developing thicker skins and deeper pigmentation. This translates to a greater concentration of pigments, tannins and phenolic compounds. In other words, elevation helps to produce tasty grapes. Discerning viticulturists facilitate the process with canopy management practices that can provide optimal protection from ultraviolet radiation and strong winds.

Some aspects of the weather in these high altitudes can be unpredictable, but one can consistently rely upon a cool, dry wind, plenty of sunshine and minimal risk of disease. This combination contributes to a long growing season and significant crop yields.  Grapes have plenty of sunshine and time to ripen a their leisure. 

The warm, sunny days quickly give way to cool, brisk evenings. This diurnal temperature variation is a key to this region’s productivity. Temperatures drop sufficiently at night to permit grapes to ripen slowly, preserve acidity, and develop deep, rich flavors.

The high elevations of Mendoza afford unique conditions, climate and terroir. Winemakers are harnessing these attributes to create balanced, complex and delicious wines at bargain prices. Bodegas Norton is a consistent and splendid example, but there is value in every corner waiting to be uncovered... 

2014 Testa Vineyards Black Sette Blend

Year: 2014

Producer: Testa Vineyards

Region: Redwood Valley and Mendocino AVAs, Mendocino, California

Grape(s): Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Charbono

Alcohol: 14.5%

Body: Medium+

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Blackberry jam, raspberry, blueberry, spice, damp earth, vanilla

Pairings: Barbecue! [burgers with bacon, barbecue chicken], lasagna, braised oxtail

Price (approximately): $25

 

My Musings:

This “black wine”, so nicknamed for the dark-colored grapes that comprise the blend, is fruit-forward, presenting a bright and expressive bouquet of baked red and dark fruit, including blackberry, strawberry rhubarb and blueberry. The palate is greeted with jammy fruit of raspberry, boysenberry and blackberry, balanced splendidly with spice, damp earth and vanilla. Bright acidity and smooth tannins balance the palate and provide finesse and structure. The finish possesses strong acidity when first uncorked, but pleasantly mellows with time, so decanting prior to serving makes for the best tasting experience.

Mendocino County - the Northern Limits of California Winemaking

Driving north from San Francisco through Sonoma County, one will eventually come across Mendocino and Lake County, the northernmost vinous regions in California. Although Mendocino was established relatively recently (in 1984), its viticultural origins extend back nearly 160 years. In the 1850s, down-on-their-luck prospectors whose hopes had faded in the gold rush disavowed a laborious life in the coal mines and traversed north to the beautiful, untamed wilderness of northern California. Although the rugged, picturesque Pacific coastline and altitudinous redwood forests brought fame to the region, it was Mendocino’s climate and terroir, demonstrating an efficacious agricultural haven, that interested its early residents. Soon thereafter, vineyards were established. Although the County is blanketed in redwood forest, farmers and vintners made good use of the rest. Where there is a way, there is a wine.

The majority of wineries in Mendocino are family owned, and many can trace their origins back to the founding prospector families of the 1850s and Italian immigrants that arrived in the years thereafter. Indeed, it was Italian families that planted the earliest vineyards in Mendocino County in what is now designated as the sub-appellation of Redwood Valley. One can always rely upon the Europeans for vinous inspiration.

The climate of this upland Redwood Valley is cooler than surrounding appellations of Mendocino due to higher elevation and a penetrating Pacific breeze that navigates through a gap in the coastal ridge. Italian heritage is still well-represented in the varietals that thrive here, such as Barbera, Carignane, Charbono and Dolcetto, which grow alongside California mainstays Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. The climate affords a long, consistent growing season and its unique red, volcanic soils combine to produce a wine with character, complexity and elegance.

The family-driven, inter-generational stewardship of the land has emphasized ethical farming practices that strive to preserve and protect the natural landscape. As we say in Hawaii, keep the country country. This has resulted in a regional commitment to organic and sustainable farming systems. Mendocino County is the largest aggregation of organic-certified vineyards in the country.

Waves, Wilderness and Wine

This strategy has also facilitated the promotion of the region as a tourist destination. Mendocino entices nature enthusiasts with the spectacular scenic coastal drive, a host of outdoor activities (camping, hiking, etc.), fresh seafood, national parks and, of course, wine. Rugged, remote, adventurous. There is much to love in Mendocino.

Testa Vineyards finds itself in the middle of it all. Farmed by six generations for over 100 years, Testa Vineyards has a long and proud heritage in Mendocino County. Committed to ethical and sustainable farming techniques, Testa Vineyards ensures that its indelible legacy in the region is maintained and expanded. Staying true to its Italian heritage, Testa Vineyards grows Carignane, Barbera and Charbono, in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah.

Testa Vineyards throws in a bonus - a wonderfully charming 3-bedroom farmhouse, built in 1927, for your next vacation getaway. The Testa family, both human and canine (English Springer Spaniels Patsy and John - named after Patsy Cline and Johnny Cash - are eager to welcome you) invite guests to unplug and relax, meander the gorgeous property or grab a pole and head to the fishing pond. Utilize the vineyard as your home base while you peruse the Pacific coast, visit the redwood forests and enjoy delicious farm-to-table cuisine from the local restaurants. At the end of a long day, a beautiful, rustic farmhouse and abundance of hand-crafted wines await you. Inebriated outdoor adventures and vinous relaxation are inevitable.

Cheers!